By the Shores of Gitche Gumee (Part 2)

by Doug Gordon

Friday, June 20 (cont.)

Main Street in Calumet, MI

My wife's family was from this area, with her grandfather having been a worker in one of the copper mines. With all the mining jobs, this was a popular destination for newly arrived immigrants, and the small "company towns" that surrounded Calumet tended to be highly ethnic, with each nationality having its own community and church. Germany, Ireland, and the Skandinavian countries supplied much of the labor, and there is still a large and active Finnish population in the area. When the mines eventually closed, most of the people moved "downstate" where jobs in the growing automotive industry promised increased prosperity. It's a real American story, and one that you can feel as you walk the streets of this old, mostly abandoned city.

Continuing north along US-41 towards the tip of the peninsula, there are constant reminders of the copper industry along the way. Ruins of old smelting factories, many with only the chimneys intact, are right beside the road. Side roads will take you to more abandoned mines and true ghost towns. There is still a small population here, but it makes you wonder what they can be doing for a living.

The last 10 miles into Copper Harbor along US-41 is one of those roads that makes an entire trip worthwhile. A hardwood forest closes right up to the edges of the narrow road, with the trees coming together over you to let the light through in patches. Sweeping S-curves take you through this flickering tunnel for mile after mile. You really don't want to speed along this stretch of road, or it will all end that much sooner.

Copper Harbor itself is one of those small summer towns with a sort of "land's end" feel as it sits at the outer tip of the peninsula. Sticking out into the lake, it's also about 15F cooler than the mid-80's that I've been riding in, which feels very nice for a change. To make the journey complete, I follow US-41 a couple of miles past the town to where it literally ends in a turnaround circle in the woods. You can't get any farther north in Michigan. There's a commemorative sign that shows a map of the full length of US-41, going from here all the way to Miami, Florida. Now that would be a trip of many contrasts!

Brockway Mountain Drive

Returning, I take Brockway Mountain Drive, which is a narrow, bumpy, twisty cart-path that leads to an overlook on the rocky cliffs above the town. From here there is a perfect view of Copper Harbor and the tip of the peninsula beyond it, jutting out into the brilliant blue waters of the Big Lake. Fort Wilkins State Park and Lake Fannie Hooe are also visible from there (I had to toss the name of the lake in just because I like it!). Continuing, Brockway Drive comes back into M-26, which runs along the western shore of the peninsula towards Eagle Harbor and Eagle River. This is probably the only part of my route that would qualify as a good "sportbike" road, although it is short. Lots of interesting curves and elevation changes, and the edge of the lake right next to the road in places.

Once past Eagle River, M-26 curves inland and rejoins US-41. The temperature also instantly rises back into the 80's for the ride back to Houghton. Just for variety, I take an eastern loop of M-26 that branches off a few miles north of Hancock. This gives me a bit of a different view of life in the U.P., passing through an obviously depressed area that reminds me somewhat of things that I've seen in Appalachia. It's interesting how such disparate areas can be separated by only a few miles, and how they can often be hidden from view by a choice of routes.

Back at my motel, I enjoy a good meal in a local restaurant, and spend most of the evening reading on a terrace that overlooks the bridge and shipping canal. It's been a great day, and all I can think of are the upcoming days' rides. This is what it's all about!

Saturday, July 21, 2001

This is another short riding day before the two long final days, so for once I'm not in a hurry to hit the road. I go for a run on the park pathway alongside the canal, and note that even at 6AM I can feel the humidity rising. Another hot day in store. After cleaning up, I walk into town to look for the restaurant that the motel proprietor recommended for breakfast. It's called the Suomi Restaurant (that Finnish connection again) and if I didn't know what I was looking for I'd have walked right past it. What appears plain from the outside is actually quite a nice little place inside, and is obviously the place to be for the locals even this early on a Saturday morning. In fact, I feel like I've been transported to Garrison Keillor's mythical "Lake Wobegon." There are local cafes like this all over America, but each region has its own character, and this definitely has a northern and almost Nordic feel about it. I am sure that I'm the only one in the place who is not known to all the others, and will probably be the subject of speculation when I leave. However, it's a very friendly atmosphere, and I have a good full breakfast that includes a serving of "Finnish French toast."

I know it's a Saturday morning, but I'm still surprised (and pleased) at the lack of traffic on M-26 as I head south and somewhat west out of the Keeweenaw Peninsula towards the day's destination at Duluth. This road runs somewhat inland, so I quickly lose touch with the lake. However, keeping with my principle of riding as close to the shoreline as possible, I go slightly out of my way to ride through the town of Ontanogan, which is right on the water and is close to the Porcupine Mountains area. After this, I turn away from the lake once more and proceed along a somewhat deserted and unremarkable route to pick up US-2 into Wisconsin.

There's not much promise of any notable roads as I ride across the top of Wisconsin, but to make things just slightly more interesting I turn onto state route 13 for a loop to the north of US-2 (i.e., closer to the lake again). This is apparently a popular summer destination for Wisconsinites just as the eastern U.P. is for Michiganders, and there is a good bit of traffic in some of the small towns along the water. Eventually, the road loops back and I rejoin US-2 for the final push through the city of Superior and into Duluth.

The afternoon heat and humidity is with me once more as I head over the bridge to Duluth. This is the fourth time that I've been in or through this city on a motorcycle, and it has been hotter than hell every time. Doesn't it ever get cold way up here? Anyway, my immediate destination is the RiderWearhouse h/q somewhere near the downtown area. Somehow, in my mind I had pictured a spacious, well-lit showroom piled high with their various catalog offerings. Well, the reality is a far cry from that, as I'm almost hesitant to open the door to go in. Inside, it's mostly a production area with a small merchandise counter and sales area off in one corner. There are a few people standing around telling tales, and I can't tell who is a customer and who might actually be working there. Taking off my Roadcrafter suit, I'm pretty much soaked through with sweat, so I hope that none of them get downwind of me as I wander around the small, congested room (but I do notice them making way). I don't spend as much time here as I thought I might, but I get a couple of questions answered and buy a couple of items before leaving.

In the shop, I had noticed a tall, good-looking couple that were doing some browsing. From their appearance I had pegged them as Harley folks (too stylish for BMW riders), so I am surprised when I go outside and find the female half of the couple repacking some things strapped to the back of a very road-worn R1100GS. Talking to her, I find that they are from New Hampshire and are returning from a trip that has taken them to Alaska and all the way up to the Arctic circle. And this was riding two-up on a GS! I find that I barely have enough space for all my stuff traveling solo on my RT, so I can't imagine how you could pack a GS for a trip like that. Again, I forget to ask if either of them participates on the list -- anyone have an idea who this might have been?

When I get to my downtown hotel it is only mid-afternoon, but I am anxious to cool off with a shower and then explore Duluth a little bit. As I said, I have been through here a few times before but have not actually stopped other than at traffic lights. Duluth is a very active Great Lakes port and has the beautiful Canal Park right down on the waterfront. I am able to walk there from my motel, and since it's a Saturday there is quite a crowd enjoying the sunshine and vendors. Along one side of the park is the main shipping canal that leads from the lake, under a lift bridge, to the inner harbor and port. I am lucky enough to get there just as a huge 1000-foot freighter comes in. People are lining the walls along the canal, and the ship passes close enough that greetings can be shouted back and forth between the crewmembers and spectators. Man, those ships are BIG! Duluth is at the far end of the St. Lawrence Seaway system and is the place where ships are generally loaded up with grain, ore, and coal that comes from the midwestern states and points west.

The Port of Duluth, MN

I continue to luck out with restaurant recommendations, and after dinner I decide to take a cruise along the "Skyline Drive" that I've heard about. Duluth is basically built up in levels along the sides of some big hills, with Skyline Drive running along the upper ridgeline. It's still warm enough that the thought of putting on either my suit or helmet doesn't have much appeal, so taking a cue from the numerous Harleys that I've seen cruising around, I decide to err on the side of comfort. Yes, fellow Beemer riders, I take my evening ride wearing khakis, a t-shirt, sneakers, and a cap. And I enjoy it! There are some overlooks along the way where you can really appreciate the size of the port operations, and the beauty of the lake stretching out to the east. However, riding without a helmet or earplugs gives me a new awareness of some of the strange noises that the RT puts out -- especially the transmission clunkiness when downshifting in the lower gears. I now understand why pedestrians sometimes turn around and look at me when I'm passing by on the street. Some things haven't changed that much since the days of my old /5.

This motel also has a terrace and comfortable chairs, offering the usual scenic views of the lake. I spend the rest of my time that evening reading a book and just generally enjoying the atmosphere and sounds of the city (many of them Harley riders intent on saving lives). The next two days will be long ones on the road, so I'll rest while I can.